This year we have invited guest editor Dana Tomić Hughes, founder of Yellowtrace, to unpack the charm, surprise and complexity of Milan Design Week.
Dana’s unique approach to Milan stems from a decade of reporting on the world's largest and most influential design event. Her broad lens always focused on the energy and sentiment behind shows, seeking out fresh thinking and new ideas. Placing an emphasis on environmentally responsible work, 'Milan Unpacked 2024' will also shine a light on designers contributing to the creation of a better world through design.
The comprehensive three-part report covers installations, experiences, heritage brands, fashion houses, group shows, material explorations, and products from both major and independent brands.
Milan was pretty intense this year, with so many people everywhere—the queues were possibly the worst I’ve ever seen. It felt like an influx of a whole new demographic was introduced via the shows hosted by major fashion brands like Gucci, Loewe, Bottega Venetta, Saint Laurent, and so on. A lot of car, tech, and alcohol brands were there again, too, which transformed the week into a cultural event rather than one purely focused on design. This has brought with it a sense of overwhelm due to the increased scale and diversified focus, along with some confusion and plenty of frustration. When has Milan Design Week become so much about marketing rather than design?
On the flip side, Milan’s undeniable charm and magnetism are impossible to resist. Design week consumes the city, and the energy is palpable. It’s a time of catching up with old friends and making new ones, gorging on design while bumping into your creative heroes around every corner. To quote a friend of mine, it’s just like Design Christmas!
This is enough to make anyone forget the cyclone of chaos that comes with Design Week—traffic congestion, long queues, and the overwhelming scale of events that only seem to grow, inducing major FOMO. There's also the solemn backdrop of global wars, unprecedented human suffering, the escalating cost of living... Not to mention the irony of attending the biggest global event responsible for adding more stuff to an already overstuffed world. It’s a lot to reconcile. Max Fraser from Dezeen wrote an excellent piece “Has Milan design week become a victim of its own popularity?” which is probably the best analysis of the week I’ve seen.
Some of my favourite shows from the week shared common traits—a point of view, sharp curation, a sense of curiosity and humanity, and a commitment to restoring the importance of materials and craftsmanship, representing values beyond individual objects. Back-to-origin-type stuff. Interestingly, none of my favourites were particularly ‘Instagrammable’. Perfect, if you ask me, because you just had to be there to fully appreciate their brilliance or have the discipline to look beyond the superficial, a skill many of us seem to have lost. (Oh, in case you’re wondering, I’m talking about WonderPowder at Dropcity, the Korean Craft Show at Rossana Orlandi and the almighty Hermes at La Pelota.)
I also loved seeing many material-focused exhibitions and radical explorations of resources, like Hydra 100R’s cool take on post-consumer aluminium or Dzek’s iteration of linoleum tiles derived from linseed oil, developed with Christien Meindertsma. I think the reason material explorations really land right now is summed up so well by Dzek, stating: “21st-century materials have an environmental mandate that their 19th-century predecessors did not. A tangible design emergency calls on us to reconsider every part of the built environment in order to reduce the human impact on climate.” Amen.
I hope you enjoy the 2024 issue of Milan Unpacked in partnership with Space, your exclusive opportunity to delve deep into the world of Milan Design Week. Expect to see plenty of visual busting inspiration via Installations and experiences, including Heritage brands and Fashion houses; group shows including Alcova, Dropcity, Baranzate Ateliers & Capsule Plaza; material explorations courtesy of 12 designers and brands; and products from major and independent brands and galleries.
By the way, this report is quite comprehensive, so we split it into 3 volumes to give you a chance to absorb and enjoy it. Volumes 2 and 3 will be live on June 11th and 25th, respectively.
Grazie mille,
Dana, aka Mama Yellowtrace X
VOLUME 01 / EXPERIENCE
From the Milanese elegance of the late and great Cini Boeri and her pioneering designs for Arflex; a homage to the revolutionary Alessandro Mendini and his work as an architect, designer, artist, and theorist; the Panton Lounge's sound and space immersion in collaboration with the estate of Danish architect and designer Verner Panton; to new work by South Tyrolean designer Hannes Peer for Baxter; and an evening at the Teatro alla Scala with Edra, the first of our three part series, guest editor Yellowtrace's Dana Tomić Hughes, takes a deep-dive into the value of provenance, and the installations and fashion brands that added layer and meaning to Milan Design Week 2024.
VOLUME 02 / GROUP SHOWS & MATERIAL MATTERS
Part two of our Milan Design Week 2024 coverage explores the immersive group shows and material innovations with guest editor Dana Tomić Hughes. From Dropcity’s ‘In-progress’, a new centre for progressive thinking in design and architecture focused on deep dialogue and investigative practice for a better world; the ‘WonderPowder’ project by Shimadzu Corporation and design studio we+ that highlighted the beauty and primitive roots of everyday powders; and Acerbis’s Remasters collection for ‘Radical Sensations’, with archival designs by Lella & Massimo Vignelli and Nanda Vigo inside Milan’s iconic retail space, 10 Corso Como; this year group exhibitions and material explorations unpacked exciting hybrid thinking across design studios internationally.
VOLUME 03 / SPACE BRANDS, INDEPENDENT BRANDS & GALLERIES AND AUSTRALIAN DESIGNERS
In our final deep-dive into Milan Design Week 2024 with guest editor Dana Tomić Hughes, we uncover new releases and product updates from global brands, independent galleries, Australian designers and Space partners. We look at B&B Italia’s installation ‘The Collection’ that featured their design anthology and provenance across collections; the magic of Glas Italia with pieces by superstars including Patricia Urquiola and Philippe Starck; Listone Giordano and the elegant Natural Genius timber collection; to ‘Thoughts on Thickness’ by the Korean Craft & Design Foundation at Rossana Orlandi gallery; Nilufar founder Nina Yashar’s show ‘Time Traveler’ that explored design’s evolution; and a diverse mix of fascinating shows by Australian’s Trent Jansen, Volker Haug & Flack Studio, Tom Fereday, and more.